Just Say YES to Crack

I'm back. Back on Abaluba, and back in the desert. I am sorry to the Voyeurs for such a prolonged absence from the blog, and I'm almost as sorry that it's been so long since I've been in The Creek.

I blame it all on Nuno.

He came to Boulder last week as he was driving through from DC to California, and between catching up with him, loving March Madness, and meeting Geovon, Nuno's insanely cool/ridiculous friend (who you can see here, photoshopped into a tub full of scantily clad women), I didn't have much time to post. I have been working on a mega post about thieves, karma, and women, but it's still not ready and you'll just have to wait.

My testosterone laden Portuguese man-crush is also to blame for my return to the incredible crack climbing out here in the Utah desert. I hadn't been since last February, unable to come at all in the fall because of my still too tender ankle. Fortunately, it's finally feeling good enough to jam into cracks and take all of my weight. Since Nuno was on his way Westward anyway, I convinced him to forswear the bouldering pads and take to the tape gloves. He's been a total trooper, and thank god he still remembers how to belay. I had to put his skills to the test on an ultra classic 5.11++ (wink wink) called Quarter of a Man. God I wanted to onsight this climb!

Not to be, though, as at about 100 feet with only 20 to go, I just punted and slipped off of a rest. Those times are not when you're supposed to be falling, but I guess I'm just a Bryant Gumbel. Oh well. That is one of the best climbs I've ever been on, a full 35 meter pitch of rattly fingers and tight hands, with only minimal (though apparently tenuous) rests.

I wanted to do that particular pitch because I thought it would be a good replica of the famed "Enduro Corner" on Astroman on Washington Column out in Yosemite. I have been thinking a ton about my upcoming trip to The Valley, and it's gotten me really motivated to train hard and get proficient at trad climbing, moving fast, and being comfortable on trad climbs of all sizes. That motivation brought me to Quarter, and it also got me on Big Baby.

Big Baby is a fucking towering offwidth, and I'm barely able to type this post out because of the scrapes on the sides of my hands. I haven't ever delved into any pitches that are that wide, and the 100 feet of 4-7 inch MAW beat the hell out of me. There is a pitch called "The Monster Offwidth" up on El Cap that I want to do this summer, so again....training. I learned a couple of really good techniques, and am way more excited to try something like TMW, 2000 feet off the ground, after my battle with Big Baby.

So we're resting today, and then heading back to The Creek in just a bit for a few more days. It's so incredibly nice to be back in such a pretty place with great friends, and this time, motivated to explore some sizes that I typically would shy away from.

Hopefully the remainder of the week will continue to get me honed for California in June, and as soon as I get back, I'll finish up on my mega post. Take care until then!