Good God, Kentucky is amazing right now.
The weather is holding really well, and things are just perfect out there. Well, almost perfect. I am unfortunately stymied at the moment when it comes to getting back on Table of Colors. In a nearly comical similarity to what's going on back home in Colorado, a fire has shut down the road into, and also the trail that serves, Left Flank, the area that hosts the climb I really want to do on this trip.
I'm holding out hope that after a few more days, the access will be opened again, and I'll get back there. Since I have been held back from getting right back on the familiar project, I've been climbing down at the Motherlode a bunch, and I also had a really good day up at The Solarium. The grades there are mostly pretty soft (though I didn't try Mirage...a crimpfest 12c) so I managed to easily onsight a 12b called Super Best Friends. I also was able to onsight another 12a, and thought I'm less concerned with the fact that I'm doing those routes, I am very happy with how things feel right now in comparison to how my fitness was going at this point in the trip last year.
Last fall, it felt like it took me a couple of weeks to get into the position where I could really recover on those archetypal finger buckets that make up a large portion of 5.12 here. I think a big part of it is the "4 wheel drive" mentality I've been trying to repeat in my head like some kind of mantra. I've been consciously taking the weight into my legs as best I can, and pulling with my hamstrings....keeping my feel high and moving them before my hands. That strategy is paying off. It feels amazing to be on terrain that is very steep, and know that I'm learning how to make it feel slightly less so.
I nearly sent 8 Ball today, a classic and hard 12d, coming really close after only 3 tries on the route. There is a dihedral through most of the crux, and I've been busting out the Rifle inspired knee bars to occasionally take some pressure off my hands. I know that some of the old school, hillbilly locals pout when they see that kind of intelligent beta employed, but what do I care? I wanna send, and I don't have time to waste.
Other than the great climbing, I'm picking up Josh this weekend, and am really happy to have a familiar face arriving.
This last week had me finding an easy pattern. I'd get up, make breakfast in my chilly van, get packed up, wrangle on the cell phone hoping to get a partner out of the dozen or so people I know that are down here, and after I found one, I'd head out and meet them at the cliff. Don't get me wrong, I had a fantastic week with people I really like, but I'm just not as close to the people I was climbing with as I am, say, to Josh or Brian, who arrives next week. I've been so lucky to cultivate these great friendships with people back in Colorado, and climbing is even better when you're with people sharing a deeper connection than just grabbing rocks.
The van has been a CHAMP, though, and I've been so happy to have that as a traveling home. I really want to get the kitchen built this winter, and feel lucky that I've been able to spend some time in it before that "remodel." It's so much easier to build what you actually want if you've been in there a few nights and had the chance to say, "this would be really nice if it were just so..."
So now I've got a long list of stuff to do here in Louisville, and as always, I'm so lucky to have the Parrish family extending their enormous hospitality. Off to get a little work done, and then head back to the gorge. Missin' my Voyeurs back in CO...
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Red Report
Kentucky is, odd to say, kind of lonesome right now. I've misjudged the arrival time of my friends from Salt Lake (they get in at this end of THIS week, not last) and, as such, have had to scramble a little. The good news is that I was able to climb at The Dark Side with Erin and her boyfriend Kennan, who used to live in Boulder and have since moved to Stanton, KY. Then I got a half day at The Motherlode with my buddy Thomas, a medical student up in Lexington.
The climbing partners haven't been the problem. The nights hanging in the van, reading or talking on the phone, but either way, wishing my buddies were out here, have been sort of long. But the good news is that it looks like the SLC crew arrives tomorrow, and Josh is out this weekend.
The van is working really well. I've realized some small details that might make things way easier. A cargo net here, a shelf there. But basically, I'm camped in total comfort. I might make a trip to Wal-Mart to see about a net, but let's be honest...I may stay for the people watching.
As for projects, I haven't been able to get up to try Table of Colors again, but I did get on a couple of other harder climbs that should keep me intrigued. It looks like I have really good weather lined up, so after my rest day today, it looks like I'll get to totally enjoy the fall here.
The climbing partners haven't been the problem. The nights hanging in the van, reading or talking on the phone, but either way, wishing my buddies were out here, have been sort of long. But the good news is that it looks like the SLC crew arrives tomorrow, and Josh is out this weekend.
The van is working really well. I've realized some small details that might make things way easier. A cargo net here, a shelf there. But basically, I'm camped in total comfort. I might make a trip to Wal-Mart to see about a net, but let's be honest...I may stay for the people watching.
As for projects, I haven't been able to get up to try Table of Colors again, but I did get on a couple of other harder climbs that should keep me intrigued. It looks like I have really good weather lined up, so after my rest day today, it looks like I'll get to totally enjoy the fall here.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
A Return to Abaluba, A Return to The Red
It’ s been a long time since I’ve posted. When I left off, I was planning to head to
Burning Man, and figured I’ d have a report on par with my essay from The Salathe wall.
Instead of heading out to Black Rock City in Nevada, home of debauchery and cradle to
tales of transcendent chemical/sexual/musical/artistic visions, I went to Minnesota. Quite
the trade., I had to backtrack on the idea of partying my brains out because the chance
to buy a ridiculously cool Dodge Sprinter van fell into my lap. I know the term "ridiculously cool" isn't typically associated with Dodge and Sprinter, but after Josh and I spent three weeks in California in his recycled USPS Mail Van, I had to follow suit with a purchase of my own.
Not to disparage his fine Ford find, but my van, Capt. Walter (Wally) C. Lewis, US Navy (Ret.), or Wally for short, allows for even finer dirtbag fabulous road trips. The extended height allows for me to stand in the cabin of the turbo diesel, 26 MPG beast, and the interior is so designed as to allow for maximum relaxation/cooking area/sleeping quarters/boombox. I, loyal voyeurs, am very excited with the purchase. I'm sure my lovely girlfriend Julia would assure you likewise. She's been quite the trooper, allowing me to talk about beadboard paneling, self tapping screws, swivel seats and bio diesel without even a roll of her eyes.
Dan, the friend I was supposed to meet in Nevada, still maintains that the Burning Man experience was one of legend. He was patient enough to understand my leaving him high and dry in the desert. I'm sad to have missed out on that trip with him, sure...but I'm psyched he's still taking my phone calls.
Behind the wheel of Wally, I am headed out on a climbing trip somewhat similar to the one I took last fall, with a few exceptions. Instead of rolling out for three weeks, this trip is closer to five. Josh, my partner from Yosemite, and Brian, my roommate, are both planning to come out from Colorado at various points in order to climb with for a while. I’ m meeting up with about
a half dozen other Colorado climbers, as well. That part is going to be amazing. The
ones that can’ t make it, especially Julia, have me missing home, but I’ m
so lucky to have the chance to chase the autumn here in the Southeast, climbing on amazing overhanging sandstone, and doing battle once more with projects like Table. I have to be out here.
Like last year, I stopped at the farm for a couple of days before arriving in Kentucky. It’ s
been great to spend some time in central Missouri, and I got to work on the
new garage that’ s going to house mowers, machines, and tools. The major difference here on the Arth family estate is that my grandmother is battling lung cancer, and I wonder how many more times I’ m going to be able to stop by while she’ s still here. She’ s looking pretty spry, so I’ m assuming that this Thanksgiving is a very safe bet. Past the end of the year, though, and I’ m not so sure.
Morbid thoughts aside, I’ m really excited to head towards Kentucky. I have a project
from last year that I’d LOVE to finish up. I tried Table of Colors enough times to leave
my hands raw and bloodied, but couldn’t ever link the moves together into a successful
effort. I’m hoping that I’ m a year stronger, a year smarter, and a year hungrier. If none
of those happen to hold, at least I’ve got the moves, all 28 of the hardest for me, written
down in a journal from 2009. There’ s got to be some significant advantage in having
been there before.
*
*
Other than this trip and the new wheels, I’ve spent the summer spending lots of good days with Julia, working a little harder on my job, watching Arrested Development on DVD,
fishing a little more, and trying to be a bit more present in my day-to-day existence.
I’ d like to blame/credit that mentality with the lack of blog posting, but in truth, it may
have been sloth. Whatever the reason, I’ m greeting the autumn with a renewed take on
writing. Hopefully, the content will be a touch better, and there won’ t be such gaps in
between posts.
Burning Man, and figured I’ d have a report on par with my essay from The Salathe wall.
Instead of heading out to Black Rock City in Nevada, home of debauchery and cradle to
tales of transcendent chemical/sexual/musical/artistic visions, I went to Minnesota. Quite
the trade., I had to backtrack on the idea of partying my brains out because the chance
to buy a ridiculously cool Dodge Sprinter van fell into my lap. I know the term "ridiculously cool" isn't typically associated with Dodge and Sprinter, but after Josh and I spent three weeks in California in his recycled USPS Mail Van, I had to follow suit with a purchase of my own.
Not to disparage his fine Ford find, but my van, Capt. Walter (Wally) C. Lewis, US Navy (Ret.), or Wally for short, allows for even finer dirtbag fabulous road trips. The extended height allows for me to stand in the cabin of the turbo diesel, 26 MPG beast, and the interior is so designed as to allow for maximum relaxation/cooking area/sleeping quarters/boombox. I, loyal voyeurs, am very excited with the purchase. I'm sure my lovely girlfriend Julia would assure you likewise. She's been quite the trooper, allowing me to talk about beadboard paneling, self tapping screws, swivel seats and bio diesel without even a roll of her eyes.
Dan, the friend I was supposed to meet in Nevada, still maintains that the Burning Man experience was one of legend. He was patient enough to understand my leaving him high and dry in the desert. I'm sad to have missed out on that trip with him, sure...but I'm psyched he's still taking my phone calls.
Behind the wheel of Wally, I am headed out on a climbing trip somewhat similar to the one I took last fall, with a few exceptions. Instead of rolling out for three weeks, this trip is closer to five. Josh, my partner from Yosemite, and Brian, my roommate, are both planning to come out from Colorado at various points in order to climb with for a while. I’ m meeting up with about
a half dozen other Colorado climbers, as well. That part is going to be amazing. The
ones that can’ t make it, especially Julia, have me missing home, but I’ m
so lucky to have the chance to chase the autumn here in the Southeast, climbing on amazing overhanging sandstone, and doing battle once more with projects like Table. I have to be out here.
Like last year, I stopped at the farm for a couple of days before arriving in Kentucky. It’ s
been great to spend some time in central Missouri, and I got to work on the
new garage that’ s going to house mowers, machines, and tools. The major difference here on the Arth family estate is that my grandmother is battling lung cancer, and I wonder how many more times I’ m going to be able to stop by while she’ s still here. She’ s looking pretty spry, so I’ m assuming that this Thanksgiving is a very safe bet. Past the end of the year, though, and I’ m not so sure.
Morbid thoughts aside, I’ m really excited to head towards Kentucky. I have a project
from last year that I’d LOVE to finish up. I tried Table of Colors enough times to leave
my hands raw and bloodied, but couldn’t ever link the moves together into a successful
effort. I’m hoping that I’ m a year stronger, a year smarter, and a year hungrier. If none
of those happen to hold, at least I’ve got the moves, all 28 of the hardest for me, written
down in a journal from 2009. There’ s got to be some significant advantage in having
been there before.
*
*
Other than this trip and the new wheels, I’ve spent the summer spending lots of good days with Julia, working a little harder on my job, watching Arrested Development on DVD,
fishing a little more, and trying to be a bit more present in my day-to-day existence.
I’ d like to blame/credit that mentality with the lack of blog posting, but in truth, it may
have been sloth. Whatever the reason, I’ m greeting the autumn with a renewed take on
writing. Hopefully, the content will be a touch better, and there won’ t be such gaps in
between posts.
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