Free form here. Just gonna rattle for a bit.
I've got this fantasy that I'll someday actually write something of note. A screenplay, perhaps. When I'm being more realistic, I sense that it will actually take the form of a series of essays. I think that format would be a better fit for me because I don't take the time to actually plan or outline anything. Hence the blog populated with little more than isolated, esoteric ramblings that are ultimately little more than a chronicle of my daily location and cosmetic feeling. The one post I'm actually proud of is the one that talked about the trip up The Salathe. And I find no coincidence that this was the one I actually worked on.
Fuck! Get it together. This is more of the same.
Take out a notebook and think up a story.
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Monday, November 29, 2010
Home Again
As you can probably imagine, returning to Boulder after nearly 5 weeks away is proving to be quite the jarring experience. I'm not sure if it was the necktie, perhaps tied too tightly, or the fact that I'd taken the stairs instead of the elevator from the 6th to the 11th floor of my office building, but when I walked in for a meeting and found myself short of breath, I knew something wasn't quite right. I'm worried that once you start taking extended, enormously fun climbing trips, "reality" just isn't quite as cool.
Looking back, I had one of the most incredible experiences over this past month. I'd told myself (and ex-girlfriends who were probably hoping for a more "normal" looking life) that I didn't want a van, but after driving across the country to the best sport climbing in America in a rig built for a dirtbag king, I realize I might have been lying. Capt. Walter C. Lewis, US Navy (Ret.) is, perhaps, the greatest machine ever made. There are still some details that need to be finished, but even in the rig-in-progress, I was as content and happy as I could imagine.
The climbing proved to be just as good. We had another month of perfect weather, and the friends from this trip provided great partners for climbing days and relaxing evenings. I even had Julia to hang out with, as she came out towards the end of the trip and got to see what all this road trip commotion is all about.
Happily, I can report that I managed to finish Table of Colors. That route is this marvelous book end on either side of the last year of my life. I'm not sure I've ever tried a route that many times, and nearly faltered under the pressure of knowing that if I didn't get it done in the allotted time, I'd have to drive home, all 1,500 miles, empty handed. It took me the better part of a week from last year's trip, and another 4 days of this year's, but I was able to send The Red River Gorge's first 5.13, and one of its absolutely most beautiful lines.
Between Kentucky and Colorado, we stopped by The Farm for the Thanksgiving feast. Normally, I'm kind of a scrooge when it comes to the annual potato ingestion, but there was so much positivity going on this year in central Missouri that even I found it hard to frown. The food was incredible, and we tried to cook up enough veggies to make it almost healthy. The friends and family that was gathered there came together to provide a really caring, positive backdrop. Knowing that my grandparents are getting a bit older, and suffering from some deteriorating health also added to the motivation to find presence in each moment, and create a wonderful reality.
That, primarily, was my focus while I was on this trip. It can be so easy to marvel at the fun and beauty of a day when you're doing exactly what you love with people that you care about. For me, that is many times climbing with friends. But what I've come to realize is that a climbing trip like this, so filled with present mindfulness and satisfaction in the moment, is hopefully an analog to what I want to feel all the time, regardless of situation or backdrop. For me, right now, the goal of being alive is to realize that I exist in the precise moment of my life, and to appreciate all the gifts that come with that. I can't always be climbing, or be in a situation that is basically free from hardship. I can, however, realize that to fully experience, learn from, and grow from each day, I have to know that I'm in the midst of it.
As such, it's good to be back home. I'm happy to settle into a routine that should (hopefully) allow me to earn some money before the holidays. I'm not quite ready to strap on the skis, but with a forecast that's calling for high 50's and sun in and around Boulder on Friday, I may not have to. Hell, even if it looks crappy outside today, I've got friends in the gym and a turkey-leftover feast in the fridge. ABALUBA!
Looking back, I had one of the most incredible experiences over this past month. I'd told myself (and ex-girlfriends who were probably hoping for a more "normal" looking life) that I didn't want a van, but after driving across the country to the best sport climbing in America in a rig built for a dirtbag king, I realize I might have been lying. Capt. Walter C. Lewis, US Navy (Ret.) is, perhaps, the greatest machine ever made. There are still some details that need to be finished, but even in the rig-in-progress, I was as content and happy as I could imagine.
The climbing proved to be just as good. We had another month of perfect weather, and the friends from this trip provided great partners for climbing days and relaxing evenings. I even had Julia to hang out with, as she came out towards the end of the trip and got to see what all this road trip commotion is all about.
Happily, I can report that I managed to finish Table of Colors. That route is this marvelous book end on either side of the last year of my life. I'm not sure I've ever tried a route that many times, and nearly faltered under the pressure of knowing that if I didn't get it done in the allotted time, I'd have to drive home, all 1,500 miles, empty handed. It took me the better part of a week from last year's trip, and another 4 days of this year's, but I was able to send The Red River Gorge's first 5.13, and one of its absolutely most beautiful lines.
Between Kentucky and Colorado, we stopped by The Farm for the Thanksgiving feast. Normally, I'm kind of a scrooge when it comes to the annual potato ingestion, but there was so much positivity going on this year in central Missouri that even I found it hard to frown. The food was incredible, and we tried to cook up enough veggies to make it almost healthy. The friends and family that was gathered there came together to provide a really caring, positive backdrop. Knowing that my grandparents are getting a bit older, and suffering from some deteriorating health also added to the motivation to find presence in each moment, and create a wonderful reality.
That, primarily, was my focus while I was on this trip. It can be so easy to marvel at the fun and beauty of a day when you're doing exactly what you love with people that you care about. For me, that is many times climbing with friends. But what I've come to realize is that a climbing trip like this, so filled with present mindfulness and satisfaction in the moment, is hopefully an analog to what I want to feel all the time, regardless of situation or backdrop. For me, right now, the goal of being alive is to realize that I exist in the precise moment of my life, and to appreciate all the gifts that come with that. I can't always be climbing, or be in a situation that is basically free from hardship. I can, however, realize that to fully experience, learn from, and grow from each day, I have to know that I'm in the midst of it.
As such, it's good to be back home. I'm happy to settle into a routine that should (hopefully) allow me to earn some money before the holidays. I'm not quite ready to strap on the skis, but with a forecast that's calling for high 50's and sun in and around Boulder on Friday, I may not have to. Hell, even if it looks crappy outside today, I've got friends in the gym and a turkey-leftover feast in the fridge. ABALUBA!
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Sanctuary Crushing
Good news. The CO crew headed out to Muir Valley and the crown jewel crag of the area; The Sanctuary. Josh, Seth, Brian and I had been there one day prior on this trip, and we'd sussed out a little knowledge of three of the best climbs there. Prometheus Unbound, Jesus Wept, and Triple Sec are absolute classics...all in that 12+, 13- grade range, and by far some of the best in the area.
Seth was able to finish off Triple Sec, and Brian and I both did Jesus Wept.
Here are some pics of Seth:
Seth was able to finish off Triple Sec, and Brian and I both did Jesus Wept.
Here are some pics of Seth:
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Back at The Highlander
Oy.
Back here at The Highlander cabin, backdrop to last year's RRG adventure, and psyched at the comfort. This place is a bit nicer than the cabin where we'd spent each evening of the last week. In the end, the cabin doesn't make or break the trip, but having slightly nicer accommodations makes a subtle difference. For now, it's just Brian (arrived yesterday), Josh, and his brother Seth. Nick and Robin should come down tomorrow after they took a day or so off and headed back to Ohio. That will tighten up the personal diffusion of space, but they add a sense of humor and smart conversation that is great.
These last couple of days have been unparalleled. The weather had taken a bit of a dive at the end of last week, but the weekend was cold, sunny and crisp...perfect for trusting the friction, believing in the eternal lightness of a sport wanker's soul, and really going for it. As an aside, I hear my buddy Andrew did his long standing project Living in Fear out in Rifle. Congrats! I'm assuming he had good fall temps out there in western CO, as well. It does feel so damn good to send...
With the posse here in KY, we've been like locusts on the prowl. We went out to The Sanctuary today, and all spread out to see the highest regarded climbs. Brian nearly onsighted Prometheus Unbound, doing it second try. I had two really quality burns on Jesus Wept, one hanging from the second draw on that second go. Josh and Seth both worked on the powerful and bouldery Triple Sec. The excitement that was in the air was really contagious. It was so easy to look out at the leaves falling off the trees, backlit by a fading sun, and think about how wonderful an experience it was. I'm so damn lucky. I get to do what I really like to do, a lot. I've got a big group of supportive people, have been blessed with youth and health and passion. As my buddy Rob has said, "we're gonna be shoveling a lot of shit in the next lifetime to make up for this one."
Yesterday was just as good. The Finkelstein's and I headed out to Funk Rock to get on two classic routes. Appalachian Spring is a beautiful hanging face up streaked, sculpted sandstone painted orange and black. Orange Juice, the other climb, follows a perfect line of pockets up an otherwise blank panel on a tall, proud wall. While we were working, along with several others, on these two climbs, we ran into our friends from from Maine; Pete and Jen. I've been absolutely loving hanging out with those two. I am startled at the depth of Pete's accent, and the speed at which it can send me into convulsive laughter.
Seth had been on Orange Juice previously on his climbing trip, and had the moves locked into an ironclad beta sequence. He encouraged me to try to flash it, and I figured I'd give it a shot. When I got to each crux section, he'd tell me how he'd done it and then belayed me as I climbed through each set of pockets and into the next rest. He had it on absolute lock down, and the vibe at the cliff was totally positive...Josh and Pete were hooting it up, Jen and another one of her friends were kicking back in the sun, and I had the moment of pure mental flow state. I didn't think about anything except the moves directly in front of me, and without much stress or hubbub, I was clipping the chains. That, Voyeurs, is exactly why I'm on this trip, and is exactly the reason I do this.
Abafuckinluba.
Back here at The Highlander cabin, backdrop to last year's RRG adventure, and psyched at the comfort. This place is a bit nicer than the cabin where we'd spent each evening of the last week. In the end, the cabin doesn't make or break the trip, but having slightly nicer accommodations makes a subtle difference. For now, it's just Brian (arrived yesterday), Josh, and his brother Seth. Nick and Robin should come down tomorrow after they took a day or so off and headed back to Ohio. That will tighten up the personal diffusion of space, but they add a sense of humor and smart conversation that is great.
These last couple of days have been unparalleled. The weather had taken a bit of a dive at the end of last week, but the weekend was cold, sunny and crisp...perfect for trusting the friction, believing in the eternal lightness of a sport wanker's soul, and really going for it. As an aside, I hear my buddy Andrew did his long standing project Living in Fear out in Rifle. Congrats! I'm assuming he had good fall temps out there in western CO, as well. It does feel so damn good to send...
With the posse here in KY, we've been like locusts on the prowl. We went out to The Sanctuary today, and all spread out to see the highest regarded climbs. Brian nearly onsighted Prometheus Unbound, doing it second try. I had two really quality burns on Jesus Wept, one hanging from the second draw on that second go. Josh and Seth both worked on the powerful and bouldery Triple Sec. The excitement that was in the air was really contagious. It was so easy to look out at the leaves falling off the trees, backlit by a fading sun, and think about how wonderful an experience it was. I'm so damn lucky. I get to do what I really like to do, a lot. I've got a big group of supportive people, have been blessed with youth and health and passion. As my buddy Rob has said, "we're gonna be shoveling a lot of shit in the next lifetime to make up for this one."
Yesterday was just as good. The Finkelstein's and I headed out to Funk Rock to get on two classic routes. Appalachian Spring is a beautiful hanging face up streaked, sculpted sandstone painted orange and black. Orange Juice, the other climb, follows a perfect line of pockets up an otherwise blank panel on a tall, proud wall. While we were working, along with several others, on these two climbs, we ran into our friends from from Maine; Pete and Jen. I've been absolutely loving hanging out with those two. I am startled at the depth of Pete's accent, and the speed at which it can send me into convulsive laughter.
Seth had been on Orange Juice previously on his climbing trip, and had the moves locked into an ironclad beta sequence. He encouraged me to try to flash it, and I figured I'd give it a shot. When I got to each crux section, he'd tell me how he'd done it and then belayed me as I climbed through each set of pockets and into the next rest. He had it on absolute lock down, and the vibe at the cliff was totally positive...Josh and Pete were hooting it up, Jen and another one of her friends were kicking back in the sun, and I had the moment of pure mental flow state. I didn't think about anything except the moves directly in front of me, and without much stress or hubbub, I was clipping the chains. That, Voyeurs, is exactly why I'm on this trip, and is exactly the reason I do this.
Abafuckinluba.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Resting Today
I'm up in Lexington, waiting out the rain. The weather had been perfect up until now, but we seem to be in for a few days of relative shittyness. Oh well, I need the rest.
Josh and I went to a crag called Purgatory yesterday, and we got on what might be one of the greatest pitches of rock climbing ever sculpted from stone. Starting in one crack system, you climb up for only 15 feet or so, then traverse on small pockets up towards a striking, steep, and intimidating arete. With total body tension, you climb the prow to ever more difficult moves, and finally get a chance to breathe...when you clip the anchors from the only big hold on the route.
AMAZING.
Table is still closed because of the fire, but the rain today should help.
Otherwise, it's more of the same...climbing until I can barely move, shuffling back to the cabin for a massive feed preparation, and then passing out for 10 hours of sleep. This is nearly a perfect life....just missing the good company of those left in CO.
Hope everyone is well!
Josh and I went to a crag called Purgatory yesterday, and we got on what might be one of the greatest pitches of rock climbing ever sculpted from stone. Starting in one crack system, you climb up for only 15 feet or so, then traverse on small pockets up towards a striking, steep, and intimidating arete. With total body tension, you climb the prow to ever more difficult moves, and finally get a chance to breathe...when you clip the anchors from the only big hold on the route.
AMAZING.
Table is still closed because of the fire, but the rain today should help.
Otherwise, it's more of the same...climbing until I can barely move, shuffling back to the cabin for a massive feed preparation, and then passing out for 10 hours of sleep. This is nearly a perfect life....just missing the good company of those left in CO.
Hope everyone is well!
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